Modeling Tips

If you have a slight overspray on a GLOSSY painted surface it can be removed with a Q-tip and toothpaste. Toothpaste is mildly abrasive so dipping a wet Q-tip into a little toothpaste gives a little sanding swab. Rub this on the overspray, starting gently and increasing pressure as necessary. This just takes a couple of minutes so is faster than loading up the airbrush and re-painting.

I use this technique sometimes when airbrushing exhaust stains. I will deliberately gloss the surface before freehand airbrushing the exhaust stain. Then clean up overspray with the toothpaste.

Before	After
Before	After

After 4 years, I finally got that discontinued model that I'd been looking for. The kit was partially painted and needed to be stripped. After searching the web, I decided not to use the ever popular 'Easy Oven Off' spray cleaner and instead used biodegradable 'Simple Green'. I poured some in a plastic container, submerged the model, and let it sit overnight. The next day the paint was wrinkled and ready to slide off. For the nooks and cranny's, I used a motorized tooth brush and the bristles got out all the paint leaving me with the sharp original edges that I was looking for.

Whether you are shipping your finished model half way around the world or just want to get it across town to a model show, you want it to get there in one piece. Here are some notes from Richard's presentation at the June meeting that will help you do just that.

The key to all of this is to keep the model from moving inside the box and to protect it from any impact to the box.

1. If your model is on a base, remove the model from the base and tape the base to the bottom of your box.
    
2. Place your model in a sealable plastic bag. This will prevent you from losing any parts that might fall off. Be sure to burp as much air as you can out of the bag as you don't want the model sliding around inside the bag.
    
3. When the model is placed inside the box, it should be completely surrounded by packing material capable of keeping the model immobile and absorbing any impact to the box. No part of the model should be touching the sides of the box. For packing material there are several options, including plastic grocery bags, soft Styrofoam peanuts, etc. But the best option is a material called Poly-Fill. This is a cotton-like material available in many craft and fabric stores. (It is used to stuff pillows.) It is inexpensive, easy to mold around the model and good at absorbing impact.
    
4. Double box. This is especially important for larger or heavier models as they require extra impact reduction. After you have ensured that your model is immobile and well protected inside the first box, place that box inside a larger box and surround it with packing material (Poly-Fill, peanuts, etc.) so that the outside of the inner box does not touch the inside of the outer box and there is a couple inches of padding between them.
    
5. If you are sending your model through the mail, especially out of the country, be sure to check the latest postal regulations regarding the allowable size of the box.

Of course, the above might be overkill if you are just taking your model to a local meeting or show. But remember that you still want to reduce the chance for damage. You still want to be sure that the model is padded and immobile. You should put the model on the passenger seat as opposed to in the trunk as it will offer much better shock absorption.

I have tried lots of ways to keep small parts and sub-assemblies in place while I airbrush them - large tweezers, tape, fingers - but this might be the best I have found so far. As a gag gift last Christmas, I got a set of four desktop note holders. They are just small alligator clips attached to weights by a short piece of metal cable. They are perfect for holding stuff in place for the airbrush and to keep stuff from getting lost on your workbench. The clips are strong enough to hold, but they don't gouge the plastic.

Whether you are using the kit supplied light or replacing it with an MV Lens from the model railroad department, here's a quick and easy upgrade to the kit supplied clear plastic part for your wing leading edge landing light covers. This will be installed as one of the finishing touches on your model so you will not need to come back and mask over it. Here it is:

1. After the landing light of your choice is installed, apply a strip of Scotch brand "Crystal Clear Tape" over your landing light opening. This tape has a bright red label.
    
2. Using a brand new #11 X-Acto blade, trim around the edges of the opening to trim away the excess tape.
    
3. The tape itself is not sticky enough to stay stuck down indefinitely so peel up the top and bottom of the light cover, one side at a time, and paint on a little diluted white glue and press them back down.